Tuesday, 29 July 2014

喀什穆斯林開齋節禱告

喀什穆斯林開齋節禱告
開齋節也叫肉孜節 روزا ھېيت

Monday, 28 July 2014

the train to Kashgar

「明月出天山          蒼茫雲海間          長風幾萬里          吹度玉門關。」                    ﹣﹣李白






The golden sunset on the train's window drew all the people's attention, embroidered the gold lines on everyone. They looked like a group of ancient Chinese sculptures dragging out the crimson horizon into the train.

Reading Mò Yán (莫言)'s novel "The Frog" (《蛙》) on the train, the plot shines after page 40. I cried when I read that Wong Yan Mei is died on page 135. I learned about the Cultural revolution in China by reading book《讎囚》 and watching movies,《天浴》,《芙蓉鎮》,《陝邊溝》and《歸來》, somehow I do not understand thoroughly, at least not as much as a "local" Chinese in China, especially on some of the terms and slangs.

S always says that I am not a 100% Chinese and act like a Japanese. My Mandarin improved after the four-month stay in China, but almost everyone thinks that I am from Korea when we talk. A Yunnan university student from Poland speak fluent Mandarin, we met him in the youth hostel in Kashgar.
"He has perfect accent and his Mandarine even better then those Chinese from the south of China." S said.
"I cannot be compared with him in this case, considering he can speak, write and read within one year study in China, and he speaks Polish, German and English, that means he is a genius in languages." I replied.

2.30 hours coach from Qinghai Lake (青海湖) to Xining (西寧)
2.30 hours train from Xining (西寧) to Lanzhou (蘭州)
14 hours train from Lanzhou (蘭州) to Dunhuang (敦煌)
2.30 hours train from Dunhuang (敦煌) to Xining (疏流河)
11 hours train from Xining (疏流河) to Ürümchi (烏魯木齊)
25 hours train from Ürümchi (烏魯木齊) to Kashgar (喀什)

The train from Hamburg to Copenhagen only takes 4.5 hours. It takes 25 hours between two cities in the west part of China, and you can image how big China is.

25 hours train from Ürümchi (烏魯木齊) to Kashgar (喀什), where is notorious as the most dangerous places of the Uighur (維吾爾) terrorists in recent years. Everyone in Ürümchi says Kashgar has more active terrorists then the other cities, where is near the China border, the terrorist would escape to the other countries easily. However, the Kashgar citizen says Ürümchi is the target of the terrorisim because the high intensity of population.

The train runs along the yellowish mountain and desert, by passed Turpan (吐魯番), The Flaming Mountains (火焰山) and Tarim Basin (塔里木盆地), the parts of the route of "Journey to the West" (《西遊記》), a traditional Chinese mythology, where also the parts of "The Silk Road" (絲綢之路).

In the story of "Journey to the West", Sunwukong (孫悟空) also known as Qitiandasheng (齊天大聖) or Monkey King. He escorts Tangsanzang (唐三藏) bringing back the Buddhism Sutra from the west (India) to China. They meet lots of gods, demons and monsters on the journey, a big battle between Sunwukong and the Bull Demon King (牛魔王) is took place in the Flaming Mountains (火焰山).

Also, Erlangshen (二郎神), a knight god has another battle with Sunwukong. He takes rest near Qinghai Lake, and leaves his sword near the Lake, which becomes the shore with the shape of the sword, called Èrláng jiàn (二郎劍) later. And that was the place I lived for two months before I went to Xinjiang (新彊).



Sun raised on the train's window, the fancy pastel horizon divided the window into two, which made me missed Iceland, the clear and wide skyline and the unique pinky colour. It was difficult to believe that is a part of China, until I noticed my dusty clothes and shoes.

The conceptual map in my mind: everywhere being so close, they are always the next stop by plane, by train, by coach or by car. It is an unbelievable joinery for the people taking years on passing through The Silk Road in the old days.

"It looks like Tibet." said L. When I shown my photos in Iceland.

Then I think about how would I visit Montréal then go to Reykjavík again. And how about Africa? South America? I do not know how and when I would end this journey. I am being lead a vagrant life.

The time I spent in Berlin from January to March last year, in Canada on July, then I were back to Europe on September. It was not a long time but it was seemed so long. Time extended by itself, the intensity of life compressed from Europe to Asia. I met Poplar (白楊樹) again in Dunhuang (敦煌) last month, they were bowing to me along the treks. Are they the same trees along the Seine in Paris? And they were everywhere besides the fields and treks in Xinjiang.

Thousand miles of sand lies with the little brushes on the windy dry plain, the illusion of an ocean floats under the horizon, where is only mud and sand dunes.



There were more empty seats for sleeping after a big load of passengers took off at half past four in the early morning. Also many of them slept in every possibly ways: under the three-linked seats, near the exit's door. I woke up at seven o'clock. There still had two to four stops till the destination. New comers entered the train, no one woke anyone up even their seats had been slept over by strangers, but looking for an empty seat for rest or stand quietly, they were so sweet, like the body guards of the sleepers.
"It is normal. I will do the same." A said.
"But it is still amazing that everybody do so." S replied, "I appreciate."

The trains were full, some of the trains only had tickets for standing left. I hardly got the ticket to Kashgar on the fifth day in Ürümchi. This was the nightmare that I could not buy any sleeping-seat and got a seat for sitting over 25 hours on the train.

The countless hours of sitting without sleep, I gazed my reflected face on the window. Am I going to be a blank traveller or going through the profound depth in my life?


((((中國火車從拉薩開往到西寧,可轉班車到青海湖,我住上了一個半月。再從西寧坐火車到蘭州。三天後由敦煌到疏勒河,轉車到烏魯木齊。在買不到火車票的情況下,五天後往喀什。在喀什住上一個半月。))))

Monday, 21 July 2014

喀什音樂會 Kashgar mini concert

在喀什的青旅住了二十多天,每天接待客人洗床單被套,正午睡午覺,黃昏前到公眾浴場洗澡,晚上到夜市走走吃吃。
昨天晚上特別清涼,大家圍坐在園子裡彈結他 Ukulele 打手鼓,一起唱:《花房姑娘》《南方姑娘》《董小姐》《老男孩》《光輝歲月》《海濶天空》

Saturday, 19 July 2014

always too simple, sometimes naive

我在內地旅行,每談政治或香港局勢,永遠被指為 SB。說我們大部份港人不懂(當然有小數是懂的),就在亂搞,或者遊行有做十萬人又能改變甚麼事情?不是不讚成我們想把香港搞好,就是要搞也得帶腦袋,多討論深層的問題,不只是一堆人在亂搞。
我說不明白的人去參加,也藉此去學習及了解他人爭取的是甚麼。

L:唉,你們甚麼都不懂,被利用也不知道。做小小事情就大肆布導,在全世界面前做 show 只是矯情。
我:一個人只能做好自已的份內事,就是參與自已相信的。
L:你連歴史年代發生甚麼事情也搞不清,爭取個毛線。
我:在屋子裡討論一萬年,社會不會因此有改變的。國內也有很多維權人士。
L:那當然啦,他們都在默默地努力。不像你,就是 always too simple, sometimes naive.

每次到最後我們都為了不想演變成吵架而停止討論。

我無意去罵我的內地朋友,的確我並沒有比他們更優秀,只是我們雙方每每感到無奈,也苦於無法在政治方面有更好的交流。

Wednesday, 16 July 2014

這個世界不讓我等他

Der Müller schnarcht und das Gesinde,     Und nur die Tochter wacht im Haus;     Die lachet still und zieht sich heimlich     Fürsichtig die Pantoffeln aus.               Sie geht und weckt den Müllerburschen,     Der kaum den schweren Augen traut:     »Nun küsse mich, verliebter Junge;     Doch sauber, sauber! nicht zu laut.«               -- »Sommermittag« Theodor Storm


那是在十七歲的夏天,M 和我共同乘車回家。M 是我的同班同學,我們又是很好的朋友。當天是考試日,我們兩個女孩子在車上嘰嘰喳喳地討論剛剛考過的題目。
「唉,看來這次又完蛋了。早知道依然考不好就不必那麼認真複習功課了。」M 靠在椅子上,失望地說。
「不要緊啦,接下來就是暑假了。想一想怎樣去玩吧,別想考試的事情就好嘍。」我勸她。
「你當然這麼講啦。每次你的成績都很好,當然不必擔心嘍。」
我們正聊著,從河口站上來一位年輕的先生坐在了我們對面。他就是那種你可以用「非常英俊」、「有氣質」這樣的字眼來形容的人,看起來比我們大三、四歲的樣子。M 和我立刻安靜了下來,M 看看我,然後又看看他,我也是看看他又看看 M。
「好帥啊。」M 把嘴巴湊到我的耳邊講,但是聲音還是讓他聽到了。他爽朗地笑了笑,然後開始和我們聊天。從交談得知,他是醫科大學的學生,已經開始放暑假了,但是不打算回家去,想在這個夏天做一些「有趣而又有意義」的事情。我們聊了很多,三個人都十分開心。
他把頭髮往後面一撩,說:「這樣吧,明天是禮拜六,我請你們兩個吃飯好不好?我知道河口有一家很出名的烤魚店,叫做三棵樹。」
「哇!烤魚!好呀!好呀!」M 和我一起叫了起來。
「你們都住在哪裡?」他問。
「塔河灣」我說。
「周水」M 說。
「正好明天我有事情要做在塔河灣,下午五點我們兩個先在塔河灣匯合,然後大概五點半到達河口。阿穎掌握一下時間,也五點半左右到達河口,怎麼樣?」他說。
「好呀!好呀!」我和阿穎又是叫了起來。
車馬上開到醫科大學一站,他站起來準備下車了。
「那明天五點我在塔河灣公交車站等你哦。」我有點著急地再次和他確認。
「好的。不見不散。 」他笑了一下,擺擺手下了車。
「哇!他真的好帥啊。 」M 故意把帥這個字拖地很長音。
「而且也很聰明,又懂得很多呢。」我也感嘆道。
兩個人都不再多講話,彷彿還沉浸在剛才的氣氛之中。
回到家後,我無法抑制自己的興奮,晚上睡不著,腦袋裡也全是他。第二天醒來已經中午,我又坐立不安地度過了一個下午。終於到了四點鐘,我開始仔細地打點自己的衣服。短袖帶領結的淡黃色上衣,配上到膝蓋的藍色裙子,應該會有大學女生的風采了吧?白色襪子和球鞋,馬尾辮上還扎著一枚海豚形狀的卡子,這大概又增加了少女的青澀不是?到底我是應該五點準時到還是早一點到車站,這個問題讓我有些煩惱。通常這樣的約會女孩子是準時一點比較好。若是我晚到一點的話,碰巧他又提前到了,那他豈不是會非常不耐煩。自尋煩惱地反覆思考,我決定還是不要早到也不遲到,就準時到達總是沒有錯的。
 
 
當我五點準時到達車站的時候,他卻還沒有到,便開始等他。
才兩分鐘時間,一輛灑水車開了過來,開始沖洗這個站台。我們幾個等車的人都躲到一邊去,灑水車裡面的人沖我們喊,他們要重新改修這個車站點,要我們走去下一站,這兩站之間距離不遠的。人們都走了,只有我一個人還留下來。過了一會,又來了一輛運水泥的車。司機又對我喊,叫我去下一站去。我就告訴他我在等人,不能走的。司機便不再理我。
水泥從車上傾瀉而出,雖然我已經躲得遠了,還是濺了大大小小的水泥點在我的白球鞋和襪子上面,我便開始十分煩躁,想回到住處去換鞋子,但是又不敢離開。當時陽光很強烈,我打著陽傘躲在遠處不停地四處張望,希望他快些到來。
就這樣足足等等了一個小時,他還是沒有到來。我心情十分低落,只好走去下一站。在路上我盡量避免走在有水的地方,一不小心踩到了一塊小石子,腳下一滑,扭了一下。終於到了河口,很容易找到了烤魚店。我走進店內,發現阿穎和他正聊得十分投機又開懷,兩個人還在喝著啤酒。
發現我到了,他才恍然大悟般地說:「哎呀,當時我馬上到塔河灣車站了,然後路上有人告訴我車站點在改修,得到下一站去乘車,我就走去了下一站。等了五分鐘沒看到你,以為你有事情不來了,就自己先過來了。你沒有一直在等我吧?」
我急忙說:「沒有,沒有。我有點事情耽誤了時間,趕到車站點發現在改修,就走到下一站去坐車了。」然後挨著阿穎坐了下來,阿穎便挽著我的胳膊對我說:「我和你講哦,他可是他們年級羽毛球比賽的冠軍呢。」
「哦。是嘛。好厲害哦。」我回應著。
「快,快,你再給她表演一下擊球時候的手腕動作。」M 對他說。他便做了一個甩腕的動作。
「哇!」M 一邊叫著一邊誇張地鼓掌,我也跟著拍了一下手掌。
那頓飯後來也主要是他們兩個在不停地聊天,我只是看著他們兩個笑著,時不時地插幾句話。恍恍地看著窗外樹上鳴叫著的蟬,還有被紗窗邊角鉤住的蜻蜓,我度過十分難熬的一餐時間。然後我說還有事情沒做完要回去了,便先離開了。回家後,我的腳腫了將近三天才消。
後來我又見到 M,她告訴我他們後來又單獨約會了兩次,然後開始戀愛了。其實一般來講,我是比 M 要受男孩子歡迎的,M 比較矮,又是短髮,通常只能被稱為可愛。很多次我都在想,如果我當時沒有那麼執著地一直等他,或許是我在和他戀愛吧。

這天我重遊舊地,一個中學生模樣的女孩子穿著短裙球鞋,扎著馬尾辮,她稚嫩的臉龐上寫著青澀,打著一把陽傘。在塔河灣畔她緩緩朝我走來,這個二十年前的我與我在道上擦身而過。再見了,我的塔河灣。

Tuesday, 15 July 2014

Both Sides Now – Somewhere Between Hong Kong and the UK



Both Sides Now – Somewhere between Hong Kong and the UK presents contemporary and historical film and video work from Hong Kong and China, curated by Isaac Leung of Videotage and Jamie Wyld of Videoclub. The films explore developments within the culture and society of Hong Kong and China over the past three decades, including work which reflects on the on-going dynamics of cultures in Hong Kong, China, and the UK. The programme contains work by some of Hong Kong and China’s most exciting artists working in film and video, and varies between animation, documentary and artist’ moving image.


Screening Date in UK

24 June 2014 : FACT, Liverpool
26 June 2014 : Duke’s at Komedia, Brighton
05 July 2014 : Whitechapel Gallery, London
13 July 2014 : Floating Cinema, King’s Cross, London


Screening Date in HK

Exhibition : 14 – 20 August 2014
Location: Osage Kwun Tong, 4/F, Union Hing Yip Factory Building, 20 Hing Yip Street, Kwun Tong, Hong Kong

Curatorial Talk: 16 Aug (SAT) 3-6pm British Council

RSVP: http://goo.gl/tjgeIw


Participating Artist


HONG KONG ARTISTS

“LOWEREST TO LOWER”
CHAN Chui Hing, Nose

“EAST IS RED“
CHENG Chi Hung

“The Doors”
CHENG Chi Lai, Howard

“Star” & “Move”
CHOI Sai Ho

“Complaint Song of Hong Kong – Youtube Karaoke”
Complaint Choir of Hong Kong & CHOI Thickest

“97 TONS OF MEMORIES”
CHU Shun

“Cycling to the Square“
CHUNG Wai Ian & LEE Chung Fung

“X-mas Half-Nude Party “
Forever Tarkovsky Club & Gregor SAMSA

” I Love the Country But Not the Party (Party version) “
Bjorn HO

“A Woman in A Flat”
HO Sik Ying

“A Flags-Raising-Lowering Ceremony at my home’s cloths drying rack “
KWAN Sheung Chi

“Door Games Window Frames – video version (2012)”
Linda LAI


“Vaseline”
LEE Kit

“SUCK/BLOW”
LEUNG Chi Wo

“Meditating at the Central Point of the Kingdom”
LO Yin Shan

“Goodbye”
Anson MAK

“TV Game of the Year”
Ellen PAU

“Playing Cards 1997”
TSE Ming Chong

“Under the Lion Crotch”
WONG Ping




UK ARTISTS

“Sludge Manifesto”
Benedict Drew

“Sounds from Beneath”
Mikhail Karikis and Uriel Orlow

“The Delinquents Part 1 (Jobseekers) “
Alexis Milne

“handclap/punchhole”
Charlotte Prodger

“New Materials in the Reading of the World”
Chooc Ly Tan

“Just About Managing “
Edward Thomasson

http://videotage.org.hk/project/both-sides-now/

Sunday, 6 July 2014

喀什,晚霞,十一點。 Kashgar, 11pm, evening.

七月份,伊斯蘭教的齋戒月。

十個工作天後,今天是我在喀什青年旅舍的第一天假期。

喀什,早上六時日出,下午十時日落,是我到過日照最長的夏季(冰島的夏季,有些日子機乎沒有日落吧,但冬季的日照也只有中午的幾小時,但喀什的冬季日落也有下午七時左右,全年日照時間很長)。中午十二時開始又熱又乾躁,大部份人也回到屋子裡邊吃甜美多汁的西瓜,聊聊天或睡午覺。要在六時過後大家才恢復活動,在颳著微微風沙下,靠著樹陰走。到了晚上十時半,齋戒時間結束,街上大部份食肆開始營業直至淩晨四五時。

喀什老城區不斷被清拆翻新,大片舊城已經現代化,它變得像中國任何一個城市一樣,到處都是同樣的風景差不多的店舖。政府正在把高台舊成納入國家5A級景區,不久之後遊客就要買門票入場。

「現在穆斯林式的老城區為甚麼不全都保留下來,只保留部份,其他發展成新式建築,那喀什的獨特魅力就要消失了,把它變成一個普通的中國城市,真沒趣。」我說。
「你是遊客,你最多只會在這裡住上幾個月,發展與否你當然不著緊,但這裡的居民可不這樣想呢,發展對他們來說有利,人們生活水平也得以改善。」Y 說。

「你可以寫一篇文章宣傳喀什這地方啊。這裡根本與恐怖活動無關啊,是傳媒過份誇大其詞。」M 說。
「我很難否認這發生過的事情,但的確並不如傳媒說那麼誇張,但大部份旅遊的人都為免麻煩而寧願到西藏去。我的大部份也䛏為新彊危險,其中一個住在青海湖的長輩還說我是瘋的,更同時驚告其他人不許來,誰宣傳新彊這地方就是腦殘和賤格。」我回應。
「那你為甚麼還到這裡來?」M 說。
「我不知道。我只想到這裡來,親身感受這地方。」我說。


July, Sawm (صوم)during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan (رمضان).

Today is my 1st holiday after the 10 working-days in the youth hostel.

Sunrise at 6am, sunset at 10pm in Kasghar, the longest summer daylight I have even enjoyed. However the brightness of the mid-day is too hot and dry, everyone stays indoor, eating lots of juicy watermelons, chatting or gets some rest. Most of the activity resume after 6pm, the temperature descending with little bit of wind. People walk under the shadow market opened till 8pm, and the Islamic restaurants open at 10.30 till the other morning, the dinning time for the Muslims during the fasting month.

Some part of the Islamic old city is developed, where looks like everywhere in China. The last 2 parts of the old city will soon be the touristic places. A entry ticket will be issued next year.

"The old city looks more charming and nice, why it needs to be develop like the other city in China?" I asked.
"You are the tourist, you just stay for a while, that looks fine for you. Try to think about the locals? They need a better living." Y said.

"You should write something to promote the city. The media massed the place, and there is nothing to do with the terrorists." M said.
"Most of my fiends said Xinjiang is the most dangerous place in China, especially the south part of Xinjiang. One of the seniors from Qinghai Lake even blame me to get here, and telling others I am too crazy to stay for a month, also warn those trying to promote Xinjiang are idiots and ridiculous." I replied.
"So, why you still come here?" M.
"I do not know. I just want to be here and understand things by myself."

Sunday, 29 June 2014

Kashgar Sunday Livestock Bazzar 喀什荒地鄉牛羊巴札

星期天到「喀什荒地鄉牛羊巴札」送我一頭羊吧 ^_^
buy me a sheep in Kashgar Sunday Livestock Bazzar

Saturday, 28 June 2014

流放 stray

拉著烏魯木齊的干拉麵,彈牙清爽
(((旅行近一年,由旅行變成流浪。我說話越來越少,每到一個新城市假若別人不問,我很小提及自己的旅程。
要分享旅行/流浪經驗,倒不如請你今天起行。)))
Chewing Noodle in Ürümchi, Chewy, al dente
If you ask me about my stray, I will advice you start your trip today.

Friday, 27 June 2014

a sweet post from Shinjang 新彊明信片

a sweet post from 喀什 新彊 شىنجاڭ / قەشقەر شەھرى Shinjang,Kashgar
親愛的,假如你想要一張從新彊 喀什 寄來的明信片
請留下你的通訊地址在留言柵(地址將不會公開發佈)
歡迎捐助郵費 ^_^
Please drop me your postal address in the comment and it would not be posted in public.
Donation for the mail fee are welcome ^_^