Sunday, 6 July 2014

喀什,晚霞,十一點。 Kashgar, 11pm, evening.

七月份,伊斯蘭教的齋戒月。

十個工作天後,今天是我在喀什青年旅舍的第一天假期。

喀什,早上六時日出,下午十時日落,是我到過日照最長的夏季(冰島的夏季,有些日子機乎沒有日落吧,但冬季的日照也只有中午的幾小時,但喀什的冬季日落也有下午七時左右,全年日照時間很長)。中午十二時開始又熱又乾躁,大部份人也回到屋子裡邊吃甜美多汁的西瓜,聊聊天或睡午覺。要在六時過後大家才恢復活動,在颳著微微風沙下,靠著樹陰走。到了晚上十時半,齋戒時間結束,街上大部份食肆開始營業直至淩晨四五時。

喀什老城區不斷被清拆翻新,大片舊城已經現代化,它變得像中國任何一個城市一樣,到處都是同樣的風景差不多的店舖。政府正在把高台舊成納入國家5A級景區,不久之後遊客就要買門票入場。

「現在穆斯林式的老城區為甚麼不全都保留下來,只保留部份,其他發展成新式建築,那喀什的獨特魅力就要消失了,把它變成一個普通的中國城市,真沒趣。」我說。
「你是遊客,你最多只會在這裡住上幾個月,發展與否你當然不著緊,但這裡的居民可不這樣想呢,發展對他們來說有利,人們生活水平也得以改善。」Y 說。

「你可以寫一篇文章宣傳喀什這地方啊。這裡根本與恐怖活動無關啊,是傳媒過份誇大其詞。」M 說。
「我很難否認這發生過的事情,但的確並不如傳媒說那麼誇張,但大部份旅遊的人都為免麻煩而寧願到西藏去。我的大部份也䛏為新彊危險,其中一個住在青海湖的長輩還說我是瘋的,更同時驚告其他人不許來,誰宣傳新彊這地方就是腦殘和賤格。」我回應。
「那你為甚麼還到這裡來?」M 說。
「我不知道。我只想到這裡來,親身感受這地方。」我說。


July, Sawm (صوم)during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan (رمضان).

Today is my 1st holiday after the 10 working-days in the youth hostel.

Sunrise at 6am, sunset at 10pm in Kasghar, the longest summer daylight I have even enjoyed. However the brightness of the mid-day is too hot and dry, everyone stays indoor, eating lots of juicy watermelons, chatting or gets some rest. Most of the activity resume after 6pm, the temperature descending with little bit of wind. People walk under the shadow market opened till 8pm, and the Islamic restaurants open at 10.30 till the other morning, the dinning time for the Muslims during the fasting month.

Some part of the Islamic old city is developed, where looks like everywhere in China. The last 2 parts of the old city will soon be the touristic places. A entry ticket will be issued next year.

"The old city looks more charming and nice, why it needs to be develop like the other city in China?" I asked.
"You are the tourist, you just stay for a while, that looks fine for you. Try to think about the locals? They need a better living." Y said.

"You should write something to promote the city. The media massed the place, and there is nothing to do with the terrorists." M said.
"Most of my fiends said Xinjiang is the most dangerous place in China, especially the south part of Xinjiang. One of the seniors from Qinghai Lake even blame me to get here, and telling others I am too crazy to stay for a month, also warn those trying to promote Xinjiang are idiots and ridiculous." I replied.
"So, why you still come here?" M.
"I do not know. I just want to be here and understand things by myself."

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