Tuesday 28 August 2012

Jean-Jacques 應該坐巴士回家

再次回到 Chambéry,我打算到訪les Charmettes ,反正太早回 Button Buttonnet 也沒甚麼事情可做。

在 Chambéry 的旅遊中心查明方向,他們說步行到 les Charmettes 大約需要半小時左右。我跟著地圖行走,還算順利,但還不肯定,行著行著又似迷路,遇到路人便再問路。她提議我最好坐巴士到 les Charmettes 因為腳程不短。我問大約是要步行 30 分鐘嗎?她說差不多吧。我想如果我跑回車站再等巴士,可能也差不多需要 30 分鐘,而且巴士不知何時才到,我決定步行到 les Charmettes。她指著另一邊上山的路徑說那是較適合步行者的道路。

我走到山徑處,果然有 les Charmettes 的指示牌,即是我走對了方向。沿路上山到達小溪時感覺豁然開朗,水流從高處的山洞流出,兩旁都是樹木,樹木的一邊有一條以木條構成的梯級延申到山上,這風景的構成很日式,像京都的景緻。

這天天氣很熱,可能已經超過了 30 度,我帶著行理和相機,連身裙已經濕透。

離開溪流到達山腰的馬路,路上又看見寫著 les Charmettes 的指示牌,心想它就在不遠處,跑到路牌的位置向上望,是一條非常陡峭的石路,les Charmettes 看似就在石路轉彎處。穿 converse 的我好不容易到了路的盡頭,迎面是另一個指示牌,寫著到 les Charmettes 還需要 1h XXmin。我大吃一驚,甚麼,還有一小個多小時的路程嗎?我打算放棄,不如走回美麗的小溪小算了。

走不了多遠,遇到一位高大的法國人,我順便問他 les Charmettes 是不是在不遠處,他說當然很近呢,然後就為我帶路。結果我又返回之前走過的斜路,真要命。

行著行著,法國人一邊講法文和英文,我有時明白有時不明白,他又開始唱起歌來,實在很愉快。他領我到達 les Charmettes 時也差不多步行了1小時,即是那塊指示牌是正確的。=,= 大家對「遠」和「近」的定義好像很不同。

下午 5 時,步行接近 2 小時後終於到達 les Charmettes,我在二樓的窗口裡描繪了花園的景色。

離開時我問看守 les Charmettes 的女孩,她說其實沿車路那邊下山只需 30 分鐘左右便到車站。我說我走了兩小時的路程是不是走錯了,她說那條較長的路徑是供喜歡行山的人慢慢走到 les Charmettes 的。這刻我啞了 3 秒,同時慶幸不用多走2小時回車站。

兩天後重訪 les Charmettes 時再畫下園景,我較喜歡這個在花園裡回望屋前小徑的景色。這張畫的草稿趕及在下雨前畫好。謝謝雨點讓天氣變得涼快。

Garden view of les Charmettes, maison de Jean-Jacques Rousseau

...and after some small search, we fixed at Charmettes, on an estate belonging to M. de Conzie, at a very small distance from Chambery; but as retired and solitary as if it had been a hundred leagues off. The spot we had concluded on was a valley between two tolerably high hills, which ran north and south; at the bottom, among the trees and pebbles, ran ran a rivulet, and above the declivity, on either side, were scattered a number of houses, forming althoughter a beautiful retreat for those who love a peaceful romantic asylum. After having examined two or three of these houses, we chose that which we thought the most pleasing, which was the property of a gentleman of the army, called M. Noiret. This house was in good condition, before it a garden, forming a terrace;below that on the decilivity on orchard, and on the ascent, behind the house a vineyard: a little wood of chestnut trees opposite; a fountain just by, and higher up the hill, meadows for the cattle; in short, all that could be thought necessary for the country retirement we proposed to establish. To the best of my remembrance, ze took possession of it towards the latter end of the summer of 1736. I was delighted on going to sleep there- " Oh!" said I, to this dear friend, embracing her with tears of tenderness and delight, "this is the abode of happiness and innocence; if we do not find them here together it will be in vain to seek them elsewhere."
Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Confessions, book V